Before I moved to Georgia I had never encountered the delights of pimento cheese. I can’t remember when I first tried it but soon noticed that it was ubiquitous in this part of the world, as likely to be found in a sandwich or an a burger at a dive bar as served with fancy crackers at an upmarket restaurant.

The history of pimento cheese is a fascinating story. Although it seems to be a distinctly Southern staple, according to Serious Eats the origins of pimento cheese can be traced back to 19^th century New York, and the first known recipe appeared in Good Housekeeping in 1908. Mass produced pimento cheese was popular nationwide prior to the second world war, with many of the pimentos grown in Georgia.

After the war its popularity declined in the rest of the country and as commercial brands disappeared from shelves, Southern cooks started making their own pimento cheese at home, thus starting the transition of this humble spread to iconic status. Now every famous Southern chef can boast a recipe and artisanal pimento cheese can be found at gourmet food stores and farmers markets.

Over the years, as I looked at different recipes for it and had a go at making my own I realised that despite its apparent simplicity it is one of those foods for which everyone you ask has a different recipe and strong opinions on how it is made and what should go in it. Some recipes include cream cheese but many don’t. The thorny question of which mayonnaise to use: Duke’s, Hellman’s or homemade? Should you buy pimentos in a jar or roast your own peppers? What should you add if you want to turn up the spiciness: hot sauce, cayenne, mustard, Worcester sauce, paprika?

After much trial and error I have landed upon a version that pays a nod to my homeland using aged English cheddar as well as English mustard powder. The aged cheddar gives it good depth while the seasonings give it a delicious but not overpowering hit of peppery warmth. Try it on crackers, in a sandwich or as a great topping for a burger or hotdog.

Pimento Cheese

0.5lb Aged English Cheddar

0.5 cup mayonnaise

1 red banana pepper (or a red bell pepper)

0.5 tsp mustard powder

0.5 tsp hot sauce

0.5 tsp salt

Olive Oil

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Rub the pepper with olive oil and place on a baking tray in the preheated oven.

Roast, turning occasionally, until the skin is charred and the pepper is tender. This is about 20-25 minutes for a banana pepper. A larger bell pepper might take a little longer.

When the pepper is cool, peel it, scrape out the seeds and membranes and chop finely.

Grate the cheddar on the big holes of a box grater.

Put the chopped pepper and cheese in a bowl. Add all the other ingredients and stir well until thoroughly combined.