Category Archives: Spring

Serviceberry Liqueur

Every year I look forward to the arrival of serviceberries from mid-May to early June. These sweet purple / red berries have different names across the States so are also known as juneberries, sarvis, Saskatoon berries, shadbush and sugarplums amongst other names.

Serviceberry liqueur from britinthesouth.com

Over the years I’ve found a number of trees to forage not far from where I live. Occasionally I’ll bump into other folks also taking advantage of this free harvest but more often curious bypassers will stop and ask what I’m doing, not realising that this abundant fruit source is growing on their doorstep.

Serviceberry liqueur from britinthesouth.com

Over the years I’ve found many ways to enjoy and preserve this fruit, ranging from syrup and jelly to shrubs and even in cocktails. My latest idea was to turn it into an alcoholic drink itself by making a liqueur from it.

Making fruit liqueurs by infusion is a relatively simple but very satisfying way to use up fruit and enable you to enjoy it months after you picked it.

The process is relatively straighforward. Take a large jar and fill it with clean, dry fruit. Add sugar to the jar to approximately a third of the level of the fruit. Then fill the jar to the top with alcohol. For this liqueur I used vodka. Given its neutral flavour it will give you a liqueur which tastes primarily of the fruit you are using, but you can experiment with other alcohol to give you a different flavour profile in your final liqueur. Sloes and gin are the classic example but you can try whisky or brandy. This process also works well with strawberries and blackberries if you don’t have access to foraged serviceberries.

Serviceberry liqueur from britinthesouth.com

Leave the fruit, sugar and alcohol to infuse for at least 3 months, shaking occasionally to help dissolve the sugar. Then you simply strain the liqueur through muslin or a jelly bag, and put into sterilised bottles. I usually leave this serviceberry liqueur to infuse for around 6 months, bottling it a week or two before Christmas, just in time for gift giving or winter sipping.

Collard Floret Gratin

Spring is officially here and the local seasonal produce that is available is slowly transitioning away from the winter staples that we have enjoyed for the last few months.

Collard Floret Gratin from britinthesouth.com

One of the things I love to find at local farmers markets at this time of year is the fresh tender stalks of young kale, or collards or purple sprouting broccoli.

They are versatile, quick to cook and invariably delicious.

I particularly like to pair them with cheese; they are great dipped into a cheesy sauce but the collard florets I recently picked up made a great gratin.

Collard Floret Gratin from britinthesouth.com

Lightly steamed and then baked with a creamy cheddar sauce it was a satisfying dish to herald the dawn of spring.

Collard Floret Gratin

1 small bunch of young collard green florets (about 4oz)

2 tbsp unsalted butter

2 tbsp all purpose flour

1 cup milk

5oz mature cheddar, grated

0.25 cup grated parmesan cheese

Preheat the oven to 400F.

Bring water to a boil in a steamer (if you don’t have one just put a colander above a pan of boiling water)

Rinse the florets and then steam for until tender (about 5 minutes). Drain thoroughly.

Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat then stir in the flour. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring often. Add the milk and stir thoroughly to disperse any lumps. Cook over low heat, stirring regularly, until the sauce begins to thicken (5-10 minutes).

Add the grated cheddar and cook gently for 10 minutes, stirring often, until you have a thick, smooth cheese sauce. Taste and season if necessary with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Arrange the collard florets in a oven proof dish, and then pour over the cheese sauce. Sprinkle the grated parmesan on top, then place in the oven and cook for around 20 minutes until golden on top.

Collard Floret Gratin from britinthesouth.com

Serviceberry Jelly

I have written before about the serviceberry season that we enjoy every year in Georgia from late May into June.

The fruit of the amelanchier tree, these bright red-purple berries are known by many names, so what we know as serviceberries are called such things as sarvisberries, juneberries or saskatoon berries in other parts of North America.

Serviceberry Jelly from britinthesouth.comThis year has seen a particularly abundant supply, with far more berries than last year. Couple that with the fact that I spotted a few more trees locally to pick from and we have ended up with a good supply of berries to play with.

Serviceberry Jelly from britinthesouth.comIn previous years I have made serviceberry syrup as well as a refreshing serviceberry shrub. Both of those are also on the agenda for this year but the plentiful supply means I can turn my hand to other things too, notably serviceberry jelly.

To make the jelly I had to extract the juice from the berries which is pretty easy to do. I followed the instructions in this handy serviceberry guide published by the co-op extension service at the University of Alaska Fairbanks. It also includes some other interesting serviceberry recipe ideas.

Serviceberry Jelly from britinthesouth.comThe jelly was pretty easy to make and I now have quite a few jars of bright, sweet, delicious jelly to remind me of the fleeting serviceberry season for the rest of the year.

Serviceberry Jelly

3.5 cups serviceberry juice

2 tbsp lemon juice

6 tbsp pectin (I used Ball RealFruit Classic Pectin)

5 cups granulated sugar

 

Pour the serviceberry juice and lemon juice in a large stainless steel pan and stir to combine.

Add the pectin to the pan and stir until dissolved.

Bring the pan to a rolling boil over high heat.

Add the sugar, then return to a rolling boil, stirring constantly for 1 minute until sugar dissolves.

Remove from the heat and skim off any foam from the top.

Pour the jam into sterilised jars, leaving 1/4 inch of headspace and then process in a boiling water bath canner for 15 minutes. If you need to know more about water bath canning there is a good introductory guide on the Ball canning website.

 

Southern Spring Risotto with Carolina Gold Rice and Asparagus

I enjoy eating as seasonally and locally as possible.

I much prefer buying something fresh from a field just down the road and from a farmer I know than heading to the supermarket to grab produce that has travelled thousands of miles and lost much of its taste in the process.

Southern Spring Risotto with Carolina Gold Rice and Asparagus from britinthesouth.comOf course it means that for some fruit and vegetables I only get a short window of opportunity to enjoy and preserve as much as I can before they disappear again for another year. I’m fine with that. The anticipation and enjoyment of each new crop that comes along makes preparing and eating food all the more pleasurable.

Without a doubt, spring and early summer are the most exciting times of year as we eagerly await the first strawberries, tomatoes and peaches of the year, and we always get a little excited when we spy the first green spears of asparagus in our local farmers markets each spring.

Southern Spring Risotto with Carolina Gold Rice and Asparagus from britinthesouth.comFor a few weeks asparagus will feature heavily in our meals at home, sometimes lightly steamed and then dipped into a soft boiled egg, or roasted briefly with a generous sprinkling of Parmigiano.

Asparagus also makes a fine addition to a plate of risotto. The asparagus for this dish came from Watsonia Farms, an organic farm in South Carolina. To keep the South Carolina theme going I paired it with Carolina Gold Rice from Anson Mills, a well respected producer of corn, rice and grains.

Carolina Gold is a great rice with beautiful flavour and texture, and a rich history. After being a staple crop in South Carolina in the 18th and 19th centuries it almost died out thanks to a combination of fields lost in the Civil War, two hurricanes in the early 20th century, the Great Depression and the advent of mass produced rice.

Southern Spring Risotto with Carolina Gold Rice and Asparagus from britinthesouth.comThe revival of Carolina Gold rice began in the 1980s when an eye doctor from Savannah, GA, rescued some seeds from a USDA seed bank and began growing it once more. Anson Mills were also instrumental in planting Carolina Gold and reestablishing it as a viable crop.

It is a fragile rice and the grains are known for breaking easily into smaller pieces, but this quality is sought after by many chefs, yielding a soft, creamy texture in many dishes.

It certainly made a fine spring risotto.

Southern Spring Risotto with Carolina Gold Rice and Asparagus

1 small onion, finely chopped

3 tbs (1oz) unsalted butter

1 tbs olive oil

One glass of dry white wine

12oz asparagus, cut into one inch slices and blanched for 2 minutes

6oz rice

4 tbs grated parmigiano reggiano

5 cups vegetable stock (preferably homemade)

Salt

Black pepper

Heat the stock until it is gently bubbling, next to the ring on which you are cooking the risotto.

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter and the oil together in a large heavy bottomed pan over medium heat. Add the onion and saute over medium heat until it is softened and slightly coloured, about 5 minutes.

Add the rice and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly to prevent it burning.

Add the glass of wine and stir until it has been absorbed by the rice.

Add a ladle of stock to the risotto. Stir regularly until it is absorbed before adding another ladle. Risotto is not a dish you can throw on the stove and forget about. It requires a lot of stirring and close attention to prevent it from sticking or drying out. Adding the stock a ladle at a time and stirring gently over a medium heat is the key to getting a wonderful creamy texture.

Southern Spring Risotto with Carolina Gold Rice and Asparagus from britinthesouth.comRisotto cooked this way typically takes about 20-25 minutes. Just before the 20 minute mark taste the rice to check how cooked it is. Like pasta it should be al dente. At this point you can also add the blanched asparagus.

Once you have achieved your desired texture, turn off the heat and stir in the additional tablespoon of butter and the grated parmigiano. Check for seasoning and add salt and freshly ground black pepper if needed.

Serves 2

Jam and Other Recipes for Strawberry Season

Strawberry season has arrived in Georgia. Here the season starts at least a month before it does back home in Britain so it is more of a spring than a summer fruit. When friends and family are enjoying berries at their peak across the pond it will already be too hot in the US South for this fragile fruit.

Strawberry recipes from britinthesouth.comSo we have to take advantage of the strawberry crop while it lasts, and we normally do, stocking up at local farmers markets and making a few trips to our favourite pick your own place where we invariably get carried away and fill far more buckets than we originally intended.

Strawberry recipes from britinthesouth.comLuckily, we have a range of strawberry related recipes up our sleeves to make the most of the fruit now and preserve some to enjoy all year round.

The obvious starting point is to enjoy some of the berries as soon as possible, usually with ice cream, whipped cream or with added meringue to make an Eton Mess.

Next our thoughts turn to jam. Our go-to strawberry jam recipe (details below) is based on one from the excellent “River Cottage Preserves Handbook” by Pam Corbin.

Once you’ve made your strawberry jam you can treat yourself to a cream tea, or even make some cream tea inspired chocolate truffles.

Strawberry recipes from britinthesouth.comOne great way to preserve the strawberry harvest is to turn it into a drink. Strawberries make a great dry, rosé wine for summer sipping. You can find the recipe here. Winemaking is relatively straightforward but does require a bit of equipment and some patience, but liqueurs and infusions are pretty simple, and you can infuse your harvest in something a little stronger to make strawberry liqueur or a strawberry bourbon.

Strawberry recipes from britinthesouth.comI don’t like anything to go to waste in my kitchen so I have even found a way to turn the leftover, strained strawberry pulp from making liqueur into chocolate truffles as well as a delicious dessert.

Strawberry recipes from britinthesouth.comStrawberries also make a great vinegar. You can use it in dressings or drizzle it on both sweet and savoury dishes but we usually drink it, diluted with sparkling water. Again, we use a Pam Corbin recipe.

I’m also a big fan of Marisa McClellan’s recipe for strawberry chutney at Food In Jars. It’s a wonderful accompaniment to an aged cheddar.

Strawberry recipes from britinthesouth.com

Strawberry Jam

2.25lb strawberries, hulled and quartered

2.5 cups granulated sugar

2.25 cups granulated sugar blended with 1 tsp pectin powder

0.66 cup lemon juice

Put 7oz the strawberries in a preserving pan with 1 cup of the plain granulated sugar. Crush with a potato masher.  Place over gentle heat and when the mixture is warm add the rest of the berries. Stir gently with a wooden spoon to prevent sticking. After bringing the berries to a gentle simmer, cook for about 5 minutes until the berries have softened.

Whilst it is cooking, place a couple of saucers or small plates in your freezer to enable you to test later for when the jam has set.

Add the remaining granulated sugar and the sugar and pectin blend. Stir gently to prevent sticking until the sugar has dissolved.

Add the lemon juice. Increase the heat and bring to a full rolling boil.  Boil rapidly for 8-9 minutes then test for the setting point.

Test for a set by putting a small spoonful of the jam onto one of the frozen plates. Return it to the freezer for a couple of minutes then test by pushing your finger through it. If it is thickening and the surface “crinkles” when you push it, it is set. If the consistency is still liquid carry on cooking for a little longer.

When the setting point has been reached, remove the pan  from the heat and stir gently to disperse any  foamy scum on the surface.

Pour the jam into sterilised jars, leaving 1/2 inch of headspace and then process in a boiling water bath canner for 15 minutes. If you need to know more about water bath canning there is a good introductory guide on the Ball canning website.

Hot Cross Bun Truffles

Today is Easter, and to celebrate we’ve been putting together a basket of Easter goodies for some of our friends.

Hot Cross Bun Truffles from britinthesouth.comNaturally it had to include some homemade chocolate treats, including salted caramel eggs and chocolate bark studded with mini eggs, and for good measure I thought I’d turn some hot cross buns into mini hot cross bun truffles.

Hot Cross Bun Truffles from britinthesouth.comIt’s a technique I’ve used before with breads and cakes such as panettone and sticky toffee pudding. It is a fun and fairly easy recipe to make and the results are usually delicious.

Hot Cross Bun Truffles

6oz hot cross bun, crumbled (in my case this was 2 buns)

6oz light agave syrup

1.5oz Unsalted butter

8oz White Chocolate

9oz Dark Chocolate

Put the crumbled hot cross bun in a bowl. Melt together the syrup and butter over medium heat and then add to the crumbled hot cross buns and stir to combine.

Hot Cross Bun Truffles from britinthesouth.comGently melt 6oz of the white chocolate over medium heat in a double boiler or a glass bowl over a pan of water. Once melted add it to the crumbled hot cross bun and syrup mixture and mix together. When cool, place in the refrigerator until the mixture is firm.

Hot Cross Bun Truffles from britinthesouth.comTaking a teaspoon full of the mixture at a time, roll into balls to form the centres of the truffles. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, then return to the fridge to firm up again.

Melt the dark chocolate for the coating in a double boiler. Dip the truffle centres in the melted chocolate to coat and place on baking parchment to set.

Hot Cross Bun Truffles from britinthesouth.comFor a final decorative touch, melt the remaining 2oz of white chocolate in a double boiler, and then, using a piping bag, pipe a white chocolate cross onto the top of each truffle. Allow to set before enjoying.

Yield: 25 truffles

Golden Salted Caramel Chocolate Eggs

The shops were full of the usual array of seasonal chocolate goodies for Easter, but I fancied the fun of making my own, and what better than a dark chocolate egg, with a luscious home made salted caramel filling finished with a dusting of shiny edible gold dust for a final sparkle.

golden salted caramel chocolate eggs from britinthesouth.comI have to admit they were rather good. Although tempted to eat them all myself I did share some with friends and got an unanimous positive response.

In reality they were half eggs. I used a mold to make them and didn’t have time to stick the two halves together. Something to work on for next year.

golden salted caramel chocolate eggs from britinthesouth.comThe whole project was useful to practice a number of chocolate and candy making techniques, such as tempering chocolate, using molds and making caramel.

Tempering chocolate is heating and cooling it in a controlled way that ensures the crystals of cocoa butter that are produced are of a consistent size. This results in chocolate with a shiny finish and a snap when you break it, rather than a dull appearance with a white bloom and a crumbly texture. There are different ways of doing it, which include splashing out a few hundred dollars on a tempering machine to do it for you, spreading melted chocolate around on a marble slab or using what is known as the seeding method as I do below.

If you want an extra shiny finish you can spray the finished eggs with edible luster dust. Look for FDA approved edible dust which is available in a wide range of colours from cake and candy making supply stores or online.

Golden Salted Caramel Chocolate Eggs

15oz Dark Chocolate (I used 60% Ghiradelli): chips, pistoles or chopped into small even pieces

I cup granulated sugar

3oz unsalted butter, cut in pieces

0.5 cup heavy whipping cream, at room temperature

2 tsp flaky sea salt

Gold edible luster dust (optional)

Place a heatproof bowl over a pan of water over medium heat. The water should not be simmering or boiling. The aim is to melt the chocolate slowly and gently. Place 10oz of the chocolate in the bowl and leave to melt slowly (around an hour).

As you wait for the chocolate to melt you can make your caramel sauce. Put the granulated sugar in a heavy bottomed pan over medium high heat. Swirl the pan occasionally as the sugar slowly starts to melt but do not stir it at this stage. Like the chocolate, patience is the key. Keep a close eye on it and when the sugar has melted and starts to turn golden in colour add the butter and stir well to incorporate it. The sugar mix will bubble a lot but just keep stirring and make sure you don’t spill any of the hot mixture on yourself.

golden salted caramel chocolate eggs from britinthesouth.comRemove from the heat and add the cream, again stirring briskly as you do so to incorporate the cream. Make sure the cream is at least at room temperature. It could even be slightly warmed. I once made the mistake of adding cream which was too cold and the contents of the pan almost immediately seized into one solid lump of caramel.

Once the cream is mixed in add the sea salt. Set the sauce aside to cool.

Once the chocolate has melted and is smooth, remove from the heat and add the remaining 5oz of chocolate, stirring until it melts. Keep stirring until the chocolate cools down to around 88-89 F.

golden salted caramel chocolate eggs from britinthesouth.comPour the melted chocolate into the egg molds. Fill the molds, and then invert the mold over the bowl to allow the excess chocolate to drip out. Place the mold into the fridge for 10-15 minutes for the chocolate to harden.

Remove the tray from the fridge and use an offset spatula to scrape the excess chocolate from the bottom of the mold leaving you with neat chocolate egg shells.

golden salted caramel chocolate eggs from britinthesouth.comCarefully spoon some of the caramel filling into each egg, ensuring you leave room at the top for the final layer of chocolate. Return to the fridge for another 10-15 minutes to set once more.

Remove from the fridge, and add the final layer of chocolate to each mold, ensuring the caramel is completely covered. Use the offset spatula to wipe the excess chocolate from the mold.

Return to the fridge for another 15-20 minutes before gently releasing the chocolates from the mold. Lay the mold flat over a sheet of parchment paper and with just a little pressure the chocolates should pop out. If needed you can tidy any rough edges with a small sharp knife.

golden salted caramel chocolate eggs from britinthesouth.comFor extra sparkle, lightly spray the finished chocolates with edible luster dust.

Yield: 24 chocolates.

Purple Sprouting Broccoli with Stilton Sauce

As the name suggests, purple sprouting broccoli is a bright purple cousin of regular broccoli, producing small vivid violet florets.

purple sprouting broccoli with Stilton sauce from britinthesouth.comIt is rarely seen on this side of the Atlantic but holds a special place in the hearts of British vegetable lovers. It is a frost hardy plant that grows slowly through the winter, reaching its peak between February and April, thus providing a welcome burst of colour and flavour in the garden and on the plate when folks are starting to tire of winter but the delights of the spring vegetable garden still seem a long way away.

So imagine my delight to find some recently at one of my local farmers markets.

purple sprouting broccoli with Stilton sauce from britinthesouth.comIt is tender enough to nibble raw so doesn’t need a lot of cooking and whilst a versatile vegetable I find a relatively simple approach is best.

It takes just 2-3 minutes in a steamer to cook, maybe a minute or so longer if the stalks are on the thick or woody side.

It is glorious just dipped into a soft boiled egg but I also like to pair it with a simple blue cheese sauce. Just eat it with your fingers, licking off any stray sauce.

purple sprouting broccoli with Stilton sauce from britinthesouth.com

Purple Sprouting Broccoli with Stilton Sauce

1 bunch purple sprouting broccoli

6 fl.oz (0.75 cup) heavy whipping cream

3oz Stilton cheese

Bring water to a boil in a steamer (if you don’t have one just put a colander above a pan of boiling water)

To make the sauce simply warm the cream over medium heat and crumble in the cheese. Stir regularly until the cheese has melted and the sauce is smooth (8-10 minutes).

Trim any thick or woody pieces from the end of the broccoli stalks. Place in the steamer and cook until tender, 2-3 minutes.

Remove the broccoli from the steamer and serve immediately, drizzled with the cheese sauce.

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The First C.S.A. Box Of The Year

This is the 8th year that we have participated in the C.S.A. program of Riverview Farms, a beautiful spot around an hour’s drive north of Atlanta. As well as growing the veg that we enjoy from May to December they produce superb heritage breed pork and grass fed beef.

C.S.A. boxes are not for everyone. You have no choice over what you get, just a box of whatever is in season and ready to pick that week. At the height of summer that can mean 18 ears of corn, or as autumn arrives, huge bunches of collards that won’t fit in the fridge. Luckily, we enjoy the challenge of working out what to do with this abundance of vegetables, eating seasonally and preserving the surplus to reduce our reliance on supermarkets through the winter months.

CSA box from Riverview FarmsThe first few boxes of the year tend to be a little lighter until the crops really get going in the summer months, but that doesn’t diminish the excitement of getting that first box of the year after the long winter hiatus.

When we get a summer glut we often retire to our neighborhood coffee shop with a few well thumbed cookbooks to give us inspiration and plan some menus but this first box of the year needed little menu planning: we started our evening meal nibbling the radishes with butter and sea salt, the green onions and eggs would go into an onion and Parmigiano frittata accompanied by a salad made with the lettuce, cucumber and local feta cheese, and to  finish we enjoyed the fresh strawberries with ice cream. A simple meal but a deeply satisfying one.

The first CSA box of the year from britinthesouth.com

Green Onion and Parmigiano Frittata

Prep time: 10 mins

Cooking time: 20 mins

Serves: 4

Ingredients

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 green onion, stalk thinly sliced and bulb finely diced

6 eggs, beaten

¼ cup of of grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

Sea salt and black pepper to taste

Preheat your broiler.

Heat the oil in an ovenproof skillet over medium heat.

Add the onions and sauté for 10 minutes until soft.

Season the beaten eggs with salt and black pepper, add to the pan and cook until the frittata begins to set at the edge.

Sprinkle the grated Parmigiano cheese over the top of the frittata and then place under the broiler until the eggs are set and the top of the frittata is golden brown.

Enjoy warm or at room temperature.

Strawberry Liqueur

Back home in England the strawberry season heralds the arrival of summer. The traditional season is a relatively short one, stretching from mid-June through July, which happily coincides with the Wimbledon tennis tournament where strawberries and cream are consumed in notorious quantities.
Strawberry Liqueur from britinthesouth.com
Here in Georgia, the climate means strawberries are a spring crop, their delicate nature unable to stand up to the temperatures and humidity of a southern summer. So April invariably sees us paying a visit or two to Southern Belle Farm, our favourite pick your own place. It takes less than an hour to get there but it is good to get away from town and feel the sun on your back and the birdsong in your ears as you fill a few baskets with fresh berries. Strawberry Liqueur from britinthesouth.comWe invariably get carried away with our picking which means our bucolic trip to the country is followed by a strawberry processing marathon once we’re back in the kitchen, but it’s worth it if we never have to go to a supermarket to buy strawberry jam, or on a dark winter evening we can sip a jewel red strawberry liqueur which instantly transports us back to those sunny fields.
Strawberry Liqueur from britinthesouth.com

As usual we brought back a huge haul of strawberries. Some we simply ate while they were fresh but the bulk of what we picked were quickly transformed into three different types of jam, strawberry lemonade concentrate, strawberry shrub and strawberry champagne truffles. Some were pureed and frozen whilst others were pickled. We still had enough left to infuse in alcohol to preserve that beautifully fresh taste to sip in the future. Preserving strawberries from britinthesouth.comInfusions are a simple yet delicious way to preserve a glut of fruit. My introduction to them many years ago was the classic British hedgerow tipple of sloe gin. Sloes were abundant close to where I used to live in London and turning them into a liqueur is pretty simple.

Strawberry Liqueur from britinthesouth.comI would describe the process as more of a formula than a recipe: simply fill a jar to the top with fruit, add sugar to approximately a third of the level of the fruit, and then fill the jar with your alcohol of choice. It can be sloes and gin, blackberries and whisky, or in this case, strawberries and vodka. I usually leave this strawberry infusion for around six months before straining and bottling. The resulting liqueur is a beautiful shade of red and still carries a delicious taste of fresh strawberries. Of course, if you make a batch every year you will still have some previous vintages to enjoy while the current one matures.

Homemade strawberry liqueur from britinthesouth.comFor good measure I also infused a small batch of strawberries in bourbon without adding sugar. Something I haven’t tried before and I look forward to seeing how those turn out. I plan to enjoy the 2015 strawberry season for many months to come.